Unlike the invitations I made for previous events, the information that belonged on the invitation had to be gathered because my aunt took the lead on planning my cousin’s bridal shower with input from the mother of the groom and the Maid of Honor.
With so many people involved in various parts, I had to create a schedule with milestones and the responsible party to ensure a successful completion of the invitations.
I started with the following list:
|Activity||Due Date||Assigned To|
|Provide Name & Contact information for person responsible for RSVPs||12 weeks before event||Lead Planner|
|Provide Date & Time of Event||12 weeks before event||Lead Planner|
|Provide RSVP Date||12 weeks before event||Lead Planner|
|Provide Location & Address of Event||12 weeks before event||Lead Planner|
|Provide Registry Information||12 weeks before event||Lead Planner / Bride to be|
|Provide Attire Requirements||12 weeks before event||Lead Planner|
|Identify Invitation Approvers||10 weeks before event||Lead Planner|
|Finish Design First Draft||10 weeks before event||Designer|
|Review and Comment||10 weeks before event||Approvers|
|Provide Estimate Quantity of Invitations||10 weeks before event||Lead Planner|
|Finish Final Design||10 weeks before event||Designer|
|Purchase Paper and Envelopes||10 weeks before event||Designer|
|Print Return Address||8 weeks before event||Designer|
|Print Invitations||8 weeks before event||Designer|
|Provide Final Mailing List||8 weeks before event||Lead Planner|
|Print Recipient Name and Address||7 weeks before event||Designer|
|Stuff Envelopes||6 weeks before event||Designer|
|Mail Invitations||6 weeks before event||Designer|
The list then fed into my calendar to help me keep track of my overlapping commitment to three different events.
Here’s a peek at my calendar.
My cousin doesn’t ask for much but when she does it is usually a brilliant idea that would only be our pleasure to help bring to fruition. She asked for a tea party bridal shower. I’m not quite sure why but I proposed a secondary theme of vintage french linens to match. So, off we go to design the invitations!
Oh So Beautiful Paper curates gorgeous paper goods. Our version of a Tea Party Bridal Shower Invitation was inspired by two of their features. Joy’s Tea Bag Bridal Shower Invitations is featured on many paper good blogs and it’s obvious why. Our design is largely inspired by her creation for her cousin’s bridal shower with a slight french linen twist inspired by a Lucky Luxe wedding invitation. Stay tuned for the next steps.
My friend Dina is expecting her first child and her Bridesmaids and I are showering her with love! We had four weeks to get the decorations ready and went minimal and chic to make it on time.
I love letters and fonts. I will take any chance I can to make them and now that I had the time, I took a stab at creating decorative cardboard letters. The challenge: finding the right size and font letters. Michael’s and JoAnn’s carry at least one set of wood or paper mache letters ready to decorate but never have they carried letters in a font, size and price that really appealed to me.
Jennifer Jones photographed the most adorable Vintage Lamb Themed Baby Shower and the cardboard letters used in the shower is probably the best execution of yarn-wrapped cardboard letters I’ve seen.
Ingredients & Investment:
What I love about this project is that I already had all the materials I needed for this project except for the yarn. Yarn is fairly inexpensive and I needed it for two other yarn-based decorations I planned for the baby shower anyway.
- Corrugated Cardboard Boxes
- Mod Podge
- Tissue Paper
- Font of preference
- Printer Paper
- Knife: I LOVE the OLFA Utility Knife my sister handed down to me. She regularly used it for all types of materials during her FIT Interior Design undergraduate days.
- Cutting Board: Another hand-me-down from my sister. She gave me two different sizes of the Alvin cutting mat. Both get used for almost every project.
- Cut cardboard into 4 Letters: ~20 minutes each
- Assemble letters: ~15 minutes each
- Wrap letters in tissue paper: ~1 hr each
- Wrap letters in yarn: ~1 hr each
I don’t believe in reinventing the wheel so I searched the web and curated the best instructions by Serendipity Child for making cardboard letters from scratch.
I made a few tweaks along the way:
- I wanted to make sure all parts of the letters were no thinner than 1/2″ but also didn’t want a chunky font. So I picked a serif font and used Silhouette Studio to offset the letters until I achieved the desired 8.5″ tall letter.
- I don’t have an eye for proper proportioning so I printed the letters, taped the letter to the cardboard and cut using the printed “stencil”. Because the letters, at a height of 8.5″ were wider than the 8.5″ paper, I printed the same letter on the same sheet twice. One print captured the majority of the letter. The second print captured the remainder of the letter. Once I got the majority of the letter cut, I moved it over to trace the remainder. It’s hard to explain but I have a photo below with an example of the letter “A”.
- Serendipity Child used gummed tape, PVA glue and tissue paper to wrap her letters. As I said before, because I was wrapping the letters in yarn, I skipped the gummed tape step (also because I didn’t want buy gummed tape because I didn’t have it on hand) and substituted PVA with Mod Podge to affix the tissue paper to the letters.
- Yarn wrapping serif font isn’t easy. It was mostly trial and error but I found Let Birds Fly’s advice to ‘wrap in the direction you would write them’ helpful.
Happy #SucculentSunday! Succulents are easy to grow. But, they are living things and still need some TLC. If you don’t mind periodically replacing your succulents, you can pretty much do nothing and they should last about a month before showing signs of distress. If you plan to love on them the ladies over at Needles and Leaves hit it right on the nail with their post on growing healthy succulents. If I may, without being overwhelming, I’d like to expand on this short and sweet list.
To reiterate Needles and Leaves list and what has worked for me:
I layer from bottom to top with the following:
- Shallow layer of rocks to limit standing water at the bottom of the pot. The layer should be tall enough to allow water to drain down but shallow enough to not reach the roots.
- 5 parts MiracleGro Cactus, Palm & Citrus Potting Mix mixed with 1 part MiracleGro Perlite. Perlite is optional since the potting mix drains well but Perlite helps prevent soil compaction, is highly permeable and has low water retention. Succulent roots do not like being wet for too long so the sooner you can draw the water away the better.
- Mosser Lee Sand to quickly drain the water away from the top most roots
- Mosser Lee Pearl Stone Cover partially for decorative purposes but also to keep the leaves away from the soil and sand which can wet and rot the leaves.
There isn’t a magic quantity or duration as there are many dependencies. My general rule of thumb is to allow the soil to be 100% dry for a few days before watering again. I have a toothpick stuck in each pot and I use it to gauge the moisture in the soil. Since most of my plants are echeveria or a hybrid of an echeveria once a week I submerge the terra cotta pot in water and remove from water once the top layer is wet. This method of watering from bottom to top avoids wetting the leaves. Here are a few things to consider when watering:
- Generally speaking plants with thin leaves need more frequent waterings and plants with thicker leaves require very infrequent watering. For example, Lithops and Baby Toes like to go for 2-3 months with completely dry soil.
- What pot are you using? Decrease watering if it’s not a porous and/or permeable pot (i.e. terra cotta) or does not have a drain hole. I’ve experimented with glass, ceramic, tin cans and terra cotta and I have to admit that that while the terra cotta pots aren’t the prettiest they make for a perfect home for succulents. Terra cotta pots are porous and therefore can allow water to pass through when soaked in a bath and also allows air to pass through and dry the soil. The soil in my 2″, 3″ 4″ and 6″ pots are all pretty much dry within 3-4 days of their baths. The soil in a tin can with drainage holes was still entirely wet 2 weeks after its last watering. I’ve since repotted those succulents in terra cotta pots because I didn’t want to risk rotting the plants to see how long it would take the soil to completely dry. If your plants are planted in the garden, I would assume the drainage is as good as potted plants in terra cotta if not better.
- What climate are you growing your succulents in? I’m in New York where the winters are cold and dry and the summers are fairly hot and humid. A bath once a week suffices in the winter while most succulents are dormant since there’s little heat and very dry air to promote evaporation. A bath once a week also suffices in the summer while most succulents are actively growing. The summer heat is drying the water but, the air is humid enough to keep the soil wet a few days longer.
I think Needles and Leaves basically covered this. If there is one thing I would add, it would be that 4-6 hours of light is ideal. Whether direct or indirect.
Experiment and have fun!
I wish it didn’t take me this long to start a succulent journal. There’s so much I’ve learned and I wish I could look back and reference when and how I came to learn the information. Better late than never.
The first draft of this post talked about choosing the best pot. The second draft talked about the basics of growing a healthy succulent. Then I thought – if these posts are meant to document the knowledge and experience I have at the time, before I start entries upon entries of my knowledge, I should probably explain my experience to date. Maybe it doesn’t make sense but I’m thinking of this as a job interview. Before I start telling the world what I currently do, they need to know where I’ve been. A resume of sorts.
Years of Experience: 2 years 4 months
Start Date: September 2013
Total Number of Succulent Species: 22
Current Number of Succulents Species: 20
Number of successful propagations: 30
Pot of preference: Terra Cotta
Soil of preference: rock as lower layer, cactus soil + perlite mix as mid layer, dessert sand as top layer
USDA Plant Hardiness Zone: New York (Zone 7a)
Environment: Indoors. East and West facing window sills. 2 hours of direct sunlight in the Winter. 6 hours of directly sunlight in the Summer. Dry Winters and Humid Summers.
Funny, two years ago, I never would have thought to document the last 4 items. I guess I have come a long way.
Echeveria Perle Von Nurnberg
I feel like I have to explain why I’m blogging about succulents because they are clearly not paper projects:
I tried keeping this blog limited to crafting and using Instagram as a platform to share my succulent obsession. But, I’ve learned so much about growing succulents in the last two years and Instagram doesn’t seem like the right platform for me to document these lessons learned. It is not easy living two separate social media lives!
I’m giving in.